I'm sorry 'So long' has been so long. We are now in mainland Mexico on a rest day in a pretty little town called Ajiji on the shores of Lake Chapala and it's the first time that sufficient energy and connectivity have coincided for many a day. Just when we thought it would all get easier with many miles already banked in strong legs, humid heat introduced a whole new challenge that has been hard to manage; we've arrived in camp fit for little more than shower, eat, rest. And I guess we're at that strange 'so near and yet so far' stage where thoughts are already turning to the joys of home yet mixed with sadness at the end of a rich, intense experience and the prospect of some difficult farewells.
Baja California became evermore beautiful, wild and peaceful as we rode south to finish in the lively port of La Paz. Often parallel to the sea, the road was genuinely 'rollink hillz' and exhilarating riding enhanced by sightings of dolphins, soaring seabirds and amazing forests of cacti and palms.
Camps were informal and memorable; the local priest in one small town offered us shelter in the the church grounds and we woke to a glorious sunrise and the uplifting sounds of morning mass.
Rain on our final day on the peninsula meant we rode into town looking ready for the kiln and the next day our 18 hour ferry crossing to Mazatlan was overcast and photos disappointing.
Mazatlan was the beginning of a different Mexico. The warmth and welcome of the people has been delightful since we crossed the border but this was developed tourist territory with all the hassle and bustle we had been happy to avoid. It was fun to leave on a small water taxi, nursing our bikes nervously, to begin the ride south to Puerte Vallarta.
And this was where the heat, humidity and mosquitoes hit hardest. At the first turn of the pedals everything seemed to liquefy even early in the day; by mid-morning it was a battle to stay hydrated, sane(?) and un-bitten. Inevitably we have to ride some major highways and the burning tarmac, noise and fumes from the traffic topped off with heightened anxiety can be pretty taxing. To help us cope our accommodation on this section has often been in hotels on riding days, some very basic but some with air conditioning and a pool :-))
As well as resorts and beaches there are huge wetlands where half the world's supply of shrimps are farmed and fished.
I loved the calm, slightly surreal atmosphere of these watery plains.
Three days ago we left the coast, turning east towards our final goal in Mexico City. We climbed over 4000 metres in the first two days through dense tropical and eventually pine forest. It was great to feel the temperature and humidity drop, smell the lush, fresh greenery and see the drapes of Morning Glories in every shade from deep blue-purple to vibrant turquoise.
Since Mazatlan we've been joined by Mexicans Geraldo and Jose, both ardent cyclists, immensely and justifiably proud of their country and keen for us to enjoy the best of it. Geraldo is a gifted mountain biker who now coaches the young Mexican team for Olympic qualification and is an influential figure in all aspects of the country's cycling activities. Both men have given unstinting support to us in so many ways and it's great fun to have them along.
It's time to say 'So long' again and attend to the increasingly derelict kit I like to call my laundry!
Just one more picture of a typically colourful Mexican town and I think this is probably the penultimate posting until we reach Mexico City, inshallah.
Till quite soon,
Viv x
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