A weather post cast....

'Excitingly variable' proved provocative to the weather gods and no sooner had I posted my last blog than they tried us on cold, wet, relentless!  After two days the sun finally shone and steaming quietly over a treat of huckleberry pie and coffee, we watched the storm clouds head off towards Calgary whilst we would go south towards a wide blue yonder.  With about 40kms to camp we set off cheerfully but with increasing urgency as blue turned to black and deep rumbles warned of yet another storm and this time all the stops were out.  Deafening thunder, massive jags of lightening, first lashing rain then huge hailstones driven by a ferocious wind caught us unprotected on an open road over a high wide pass - took me right back to Rannock Moor but on an American scale!  Eventually the truck came and pulled us off and we discovered that behind us, even the sweep had hunkered down in the ditch!   The upside was that attempts to wash my grubby jacket had proved futile but the hail worked like a washboard and beat it back to almost clean!

This section is called, I believe without irony, 'Ride to the sun' and began in a marvellous mountain area in the National Glacier Park bringing us into Montana.  When the rain stopped, the temperature dropped.  Even prepared for the cold and climbing hard it was difficult to stay warm and I was introduced to 'Hot Shots' by the Canadians who tuck these magic little sachets into their shoes and gloves where they emanate a gentle warmth for several  hours; such comfort.  The Logan Pass was spectacular and we were extremely fortunate to go through on the last day of clear skies before smoke drifting from literally hundreds of wild forest fires shrouded everything in acrid haze.  When visible the sun has been a strange blood orange orb in a pewter sky - the photo doesn't show the colour but hopefully conveys the atmosphere.

Montana began with serious cowboy country, massive ranches, horses, guns, whips and hats.  We've ridden out of First Nation Flatfoot people's lands into Flathead country and seen beautiful examples of traditional crafts in museums and shops.  And Casinos everywhere.  

    Spot the fake!

It's been two short, three-day riding sections divided by a peaceful rest day in Kalispell, a pretty town with old painted wood houses and we're now in the state capital, Helena, before an eight day blast to Moab. There we'll have two rest days to explore Yellowstone and celebrate the halfway point of the trip.  Riding wise I'm happy to report that I think I've finally achieved a degree of equilibrium and am able to push as hard with the right as the left!  Wariness went to the winds on the morning the thermometer said minus two degrees C as we rode out of camp and for the first time I can remember ever, windchill made the downhills more challenging than the ups.  It's fun to be riding strongly again.  

The group is down to a hardcore sixteen now and has found a comfortable, functional way of being together.  We've been blessed with the addition of the company accountant, ostensibly to oversee the border crossing back into the U.S.  He collects unusual car plate numbers and has all the interpersonal skills that that implies... It's been a wee bit testing for us but he's off on Monday.  Two more sectional riders join this evening and more down the line, which gives a nice fillip to the core group.

A few signs....

    Hmmm.....

That's all for now, so long,

Viv x

Back in the Rockies

Two more weeks on the road and we've just arrived in Jasper, a pretty, touristy town tucked into the most exhilarating mountain scenery of the trip so far.  We're back in the Rockies in southern Alberta after long stretches through rolling arable farmland that felt homely initially and then a bit bland.  

I intended to post from Fort St John, our last rest day, but it was such a dispiriting place that I never got it together.  The entire town was recently thrown up to support the extensive oil fracking activity and had all the charm of an industrial estate.  Our hotel was on the fringe, 5 kms from the laundromat, it rained persistently and we fell into a collective glum that it seemed unnecessary to share.  Isabelle was so concerned about spending additional time there that she paid to change to an earlier flight out.  I was feeling sad to lose my riding partner.   

Things have perked up considerably since then and each day has had its rewards and challenges.  We reached Mile Zero at the south end of the Alaskan Highway and it's been good to have less traffic and construction sections.  By and large truck drivers are pretty considerate but some of the RV folk seem unaware that their mirrors and rear sections are wider than their cosy cabs and swoosh past like giant fly swats.

The brief summer (July!) is the only opportunity for road repairs and the extreme winter frost causes extensive damage - 'ice heaves' and 'shivers'.  Many of the road workers are women both driving the huge machines and controlling the traffic; people in the long queues are notably patient and calm.  On a couple of occasions we had to load our bikes into the back of the control pickups to be ferried past active machinery a few at a time - significant hassle for the workers treated like a fun diversion with banter and goodwill.  Less fun for us were the half finished sections with corrugation, loose gravel and clouds of invasive dust.

The weather has been excitingly variable and within a few moments we can be in full waterproofs against cold, driving rain then applying sunscreen as the temperature shoots up once the sun comes out.   Sometimes the headwinds are brutal.  'Allez, allez, allez, on n'est pas a la plage!' comes the cry if you slow down too much - when conditions are harsh it's great to have the encouragement and camaraderie of other riders!  One of the pleasures of the trip is being able to ring the changes of riding solo, in a pair or small group according to mood and circumstance.

    In a forest camp

Four of us decided to ride our bikes to the gondola station on the rest day, only 5kms but all between 10 and 15% climb we soon discovered, to go to the top of Whistler Mountain and in retrospect I'm so happy that we did.  At the top of the lift we hiked up to the summit and could see snow covered peaks and glaciers for miles in all directions.  Little groups of ptarmigan sheltered in the rocks unfazed by our presence and we caught a glimpse of some rare mountain sheep, long-legged and with dramatic twisted horns.  The wildlife tally has increased glamorously this section and now includes beavers, deer, a lone wolf - still no moose.

    Bear Lake - turquoise because sunlight reflects on the fine silt in suspension.

    Athabasca Falls

    When my neck tires from gazing upwards the verge is full of colourful wild flowers

And so I tried to post this in Jasper and there was insufficient WiFi signal...... 

We're now in Banff after the best three days of the trip so far. Cold starts at 2 or 3 degrees then beautiful sunshine for the fabulous mountain, glacier and lake views all along the way.  The climbs have been hard and it was funny to be clapped into a lay-by by a group of coach tourists from South Korea!

    Looking down on Jasper

At last a Scrabble player has joined us for a few days and I've a game to play over breakfast.  We haven't resolved the English or American spelling issue yet.....

Love

Viv x

    Last of the midnight sun