It was a tricky start. Farewells over and kindly delivered to LHR Terminal 2 by Kirstin, complete with boxed bike and two large duffle bags, I began my journey to Alaska, first leg to Frankfurt second to Anchorage, in mellow mood. Things fell apart dramatically when at the boarding desk in Frankfurt I was told I couldn't fly without a return ticket. I explained that I would be returning from Mexico City and showed the ride itinerary but to no avail. No previous officials had raised the issue but this guy was resolute. He said my only option was to buy a return in the fifteen minutes before the flight left. Despite a merry sprint back through passport control to the ticket desk I didn't make it and the plane went without me and my baggage.
Determined to make the start I managed to book new flights to to Anchorage via Chicago and Seattle, leave 5pm, arrive 8.30 am - I hoped I might even make some of the rider briefing meeting due to begin at 9am at the hotel. It was a journey made more interesting by having to lug my bags and bike box through customs at each stage. We landed just an hour late in Anchorage and flushed with relief I rushed to baggage claim. No bags or bike. I reported them missing and was promised they would be delivered to the hotel the moment they were found.
Meanwhile I went ahead to the hotel, worried but determinedly philosophical and it was great to meet up with Isabelle again (friend from the Africa ride) and join the group at last. At regular intervals I rang for baggage news and was eventually told it had been traced and would be delivered at 4 am. At 5am it arrived. The bike box bore the ominous word 'Inspected' and we discovered all my careful packing awry - even the spare inner tube boxes had been opened.
Liam, the brilliant tour mechanic, began putting the bike together whilst I tried to sort my stuff. We have a bag with everything needed for riding and camping for the week, a permanent one with everything else, only accessible on rest days and a saddle bag for tools etc. with us on on the bike. It was a bit of a challenge to think it all through in the time as things had been packed for shape and weight, not the tour system!
By 7.20 Liam had the bike in one piece despite the fact that the rear fork had been bent in transit and I was in cycling gear with a saddlebag full of something! By 7.27 we'd attached carrier and saddlebag and at 7.30 I rode out with the group! Not the perfect start but it felt like a triumph!
We're now in Tok and over 500 hilly kilometres from Anchorage through wonderful wild mountainous country. Good roads with wide cycle tracks and little traffic make for comfortable riding, the scenery has been spectacular and the weather mixed but predominantly dry. Camp sites have been quiet and simple, food delicious and only mosquitoes distract from the pleasure of it all!
I'm gradually getting to know the group, which is cheerful and diverse and a fantastic staff team, coolly efficient, warm and good-humoured. I found the first couple of days riding pretty hard on a significant sleep deficit - it's been great to have Isabelle's familiar encouragements 'so now I think we are getting somewhere...' in a rich French accent as we slog up another hill! The dodgy ankle and knee have decided to play ball and seem to be improving day by day.
A rest day is welcome and at last time to organise my gear properly and relax into the journey. A short walk to the laundry in a minute and then coffee at the bakery - an uncomplicated life. Connectivity is an issue in these remote areas but I'm assured it will improve as we head south.
I'm afraid this has been more about getting here than being here. We've been told to deposit all smelly liquids and creams in the bear proof box at night throughout the next section.....I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for all the good luck messages and I hope you're all well and enjoying a good summer.
So long,
Viv x
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